As to Cordovan accessories I have two wallets in Colour 8 that look beautiful but which go unused, and a key fob. They have a similar effect to horse or boars hair brushes, but with more direct pressure, that helps with pushing against the dense tissue of shell cordovan. Echoing a couple of readers comments here, horses have for most of my life, held a place close to my heart. No doubt youve covered this somewhere else. Would you consider an article about how to wear tassel loafers sometime? The purple/black colour is dark enough to go with lots of materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels. The distinct density of shell makes it durable, and it has a brilliant natural luster, which is easily maintained with buffing and . You could wear most things, the versatility point was more about colours and materials things might look best with. But it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else walking down the street. Dyes added will make the hide darker as it goes through the tanning process. Definitely my favorite shoes. Or did I choose the wrong colour? What does the deer bone (purportedly) add to this? From the link you provided, it seems that you went with Aldens Norwegian blucher on the Barrie last and with brass eyelets. Hi Simon, I see that your readers have already given you way too much work in the above as it is but Im going to throw in a question as well sorry: what is the point / function of rubbing the shoes with a deer bone? I just received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them. Do you think that the cordovan loafer are as versatile as a pair of brown loafer? Alden is really expensive in my country, whereas to my surprise Allen Edmonds is not. Hi Simon, A couple of questions if you wouldnt mind: 1. I have just one question: do we know whether any of the colours in the C&J cordovan range are in fact color no. This is extreme, but show how it can be. Notice the lightening of the leather and . Id seen a few examples of #8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear. As to belt, I wear a dark-brown leather most of the time, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look. Powered by Shopify, Through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention. Thank you! Normally I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG. There is no black/purple look that I see from your pair. Your BB were by Alden and pretty sure all Alden Shell Cordovan has this acrylic finish, most others dont add that to their shell. A fast brush will not only remove dirt, but the friction will build up heat that brings back oils and shine to the leather. I also have a very high instep and no ankles (I am a poor specimen of the species in many ways). Thanks Simon! I like the comfort, the all day wearability. Did you order a dark No. Finished products tend to improve with wear, but also forgotten or dead stock bundles exhibit positive change - excess waxes and oils migrate to the surface, colors deepen and redden, and sun fades or darkens. I should also warn any descendants of Isadore Horween against reading further, as the images below may be too horrifying for you to bear. To see if this would work, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing. Well, Shoegazing is here to serve you. It sounds like they maybe havent had shoe trees in them all the time as well? Its so tough and a real pain. Ive only noticed a very slight squeaking, but I have to say it hasnt decreased over time Im afraid. Im looking forward to stopping by! So not really an Oxford equivalent in that sense. I think you have one in suede. But Im not sure thats a reason to go with it both will be the same before long, Hi Simon. The Van shape can certainly work with a sports coat, but not as easily as the slimmer lasts I find. Too much product becomes sticky and attracts dust and dirt. I also wanted to buy a boot for myself in Color 8Shell Cordovan and as youve mentioned in this blog post as this boot make style bridges casual and formal. But they look like a fairly smart pair of derbys, but one which will be pretty robust in that make and in the cordovan. How would you compare Alden & Edward Greens Greenwich in Cordovan burgundy? Anyways, the Alden Indy color 8 shell is often said to be super versatile. The cost is warranted considering the factors surrounding its production. Personally, I have owned a pair of Alden 8 cap-toe oxfords with minimal brogue and have paired these with both gray and navy suits for work. But the point is not just putting fat/oil on. 4) Take your favorite neutral polish (Horween uses Venetian cream for every piece of shell cordovan - at Ashland we use our own Leather Cleaner & Conditioner to finish every wallet) and apply only a very small amount. Although, this requires buying more leather care products separate of what you may have already including a deer bone (seriously). And they can both be brushed out. Michael, I wouldnt personally Michael. And given how the shoes will be worn (mostly denim) the slimness was not that much of a concern. Compared to other leather shoes Ive owned (a pair of Wolverine 1000 Mile shoes in brown Chromexcel leather, another pair of Alden penny loafers in snuff suede, a pair of Herms calfskin leather boots, among others), breaking in this pair of loafers was difficult. Im a bit worried they would be not smart enough for flannels and too smart for chinos, Yes I think your instinct is right. Indeed, some readers thought they were black, when they saw the recent checks post that featured them. i find the low vamp a bit unsuitable for the winters though. I have the same question as the guy above:-) Just so that I understand you correctly Simon: the Alden loafers you are wearing are a size 9 US/D width? You use colored cream on calfskin to replenish the color loss from scuff marks, or to brighten color loss from fading over time. Bought one years ago and if I apply it like in the Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches. Thanks for another wonderful article! Once you had checked off that first box of Goodyear welted shoes, whether it was the Red Wing Iron Ranger or the Alden Indy boot, the next step in the ascension toward shoe collection mastery was a pair of shell cordovan shoes. Id love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes. I am glad you have become a convert to shell cordovan, Simon. Over time, even with proper care, repeated creasing can cause leather to crack and rip. 3) It does soften up a bit, but not a huge amount. I can wear these in the smartest of corporate/legal office environments in Manhattan and they are often the most appropriate and nicest looking shoes in the building. My shoe repair person told me You will be buried in these shoes. The 9.5 feels very comfy from the start. Yes I think those Vass would have been good had they been the correct size. In addition to limited supply, shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take six months to produce. What is Shell Cordovan? To not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here. Who should not buy Crockett & Jones. worsteds) compared with denim, cord or chinos (where I imagine the more comfortable home for cordovan, but not necessarily black shoes)? Speaking of black, I bought those EG loafers in black cordovan largely for its toughness, but it doesnt have the same variation as colour 8, and therefore charm. After seeing you as well as a number of people whose style I admire wearing Alden variations, Im trying to justify owning one pair, just one. Gabucci in Sweden sells Alden and while it seems like their stock is running low, they at least still have tassels on the Aberdeen last in col 8. They are wide and flat, so theoretically, I would need pretty wide lasts to be comfortable. Then, lightly dab & swirl stiff waxes, buffing a single droplet of water across the surface, will bring out the highest reflective shine. They continued to lighten up progressively with more exposure, but not as rapidly as they had in the first week. I have recently purchased color 8 #2210 in Aberdeen going with my normal width (D width) but so far it has not been a pleasant to wear them with as it is a bit snug on the ball of my foot. Deer bones are traditionally used to help smooth the creases, assist in the absorption of oils, and spread the waxes on the surface. What is the right fit for it? Once your account is created, you'll be logged-in to this account. The cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but other parts of the shoe can. Or does the fact that Carmina, Alden, C&J and EG all source their cordovan from Horween means that it is exactly the same material? Would you advise to work with black cream to darken it? But thats just me, as you know many like cordovan a lot, so cant say if its something for you or not. But they were looking much lighter! They were from the 60s, I think, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost $20. Thank you for a most interesting article. You mention here, Simon, that you can remove certain scratches by brushing and buffing. The guy knows where to find everything all over the world. The Process: Preparing Brush the uppers briskly with a pig bristle brush Repeat with a horse hair brush until all dust and surface dirt is removed Gentle Cleaning Apply the neutral cream in circular motions using a clean cotton cloth with light to medium pressure Further complicating matters is their custom retailer program whereby they create unique configurations for some of their retailers. I havent tried them in person, so its hard to say. Also C&J do basically the same boot in calf or rough suede for around 500 cheaper. As it isnt a skin, it doesnt have a top layer, and so can look almost shadowy, with colours floating beneath the surface. Would you say the van or abeerden last is more suitable? Depending on how wet they are, this may take 24 hours or more, but it is the best method, and will not harm the leather. This will allow you to begin buffing with water droplets, for a mirror shine. I now deeply regret the non-refundable downpayment on the shell-bleaching greenhouse. #1. Trying to figure out, do I actually need a pair of cordovan shoes. Another wonderful post and excellent examples of how to style cordovan shoes. I think its worth looking closely into the economics of it Casey. I wasnt planning anything, no, but briefly I think they are well made and will be better made than Alden (finesse of make is not Aldens strong point). But perhaps because I carry on using cream now and again. Its a little hard to say on the value I think theyre both decent value for what you pay in the US, though Allen Edmonds isnt what it was. Seems like Color 8 usually gets lighter over time the same way denim looks more and more washed over time. To reach and expose the shell, the leather is shaved on the flesh side (underside). See above. If my shoe size is UK 8.5 and most of my trousers leg openings are 18.5-19cm, do you think I should instead look for the slimmer lasts than Barrie lasts? One can see how this looks on for example this photo of the flesh side of a horserump hide, where you see the shell as a more light grey area in the bottom half: https://cdn-images-1.medium.com/max/800/0*Sn-Siz4wX_IDteTp. Not ideal, but its mainly aesthetic since its only in the top surface of the shell. When doing that make sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the shoe to not deform the shoes. But black-calf loafers would look completely different, and be much harder to wear with denim. Theres so much oil in there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases. Ross Hilton: Sorry, havent seen that type of issue on cordovan, sounds like the actual shell membrane has worn down and youve reached the corium of the hide, but dont know what would potentially work best. I see. Theyre also a bit smaller in the waist, but thats a fit thing, not a style one, 2. Simon I just received a pair of Alden Cordovan chukkas, do you recommend shoe trees for storage? Now when I have nightmares where Im running in slow motion and zombie Hitler is chasing me on a horse-sized scorpion with my grandmothers face, these are the shoes Im wearing. By accepting all cookies, you agree to our use of cookies to deliver and maintain our services and site, improve the quality of Reddit, personalize Reddit content and advertising, and measure the effectiveness of advertising. Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, after a rainy day. I have a pair of Carmina Cordovan Derbies (Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s. Well, most people arent buying them as a waterproof shoe necessarily. (Thinkwould set the bar too highIm aware ). Its time to balance those out with something much less impressive. I have been talked out of purchasing cordovan shoes by Alden and others because of two issues. I often get asked "how do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from the rain?" Particularly, the Alden 986 loafer. No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can see from the regular comments over the years. In terms of width, D v E, I wasnt able to try an E, so I dont know how that would have compared. As mentioned before, shell cordovan comes from the thickest part of the horse and is less prone to stretching. Alden Shoes - Aging of Color #8 Shell Cordovan. See here: https://www.drakes.com/usa/shoes/alden-for-drake-s-burgundy-color-8-cordovan-commando-sole-chukka-boot, They look very nice, obviously I like the last and the cordovan colour. What are the plusses and minuses? Picture: Alden of San Diego. No, this was a slimmer prototype I was trying. Would love to see an article on types of shoe leathers (wallets, belts, etc.). Sep 16, 2008. I am considering buying a pair of cordovan loafer, but I am not sure, which to go for. But I still dont quite understand your preference for Alden over Carmina on quality/value grounds. Not really Im afraid. So if you know that you have feet that perspire quite a lot and easily get warm, have this in mind, and at least not buy cordovan shoes you intend to wear during summer months. Thanks for your reply, Simon. Perhaps because it is a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything they produce? Plenty of people do wear topsiders, or boat shoes, over here too. Id definitely go for the Alden tassel loafer, as that would add something genuinely different to what you already have. I dont know what last theyre on, but Id suggest that theyre probably still a relatively casual shoe with a suit which woiuldnt matter in most places, most of the time. Cordovan is, generally, easier to look after than calf. Genuinely different to what you already have there already, and you risk getting white lines in the creases of! Advise to work with black cream to darken it one, 2 shoes and increasingly with 501.s allow you begin... Can certainly work with black cream to darken it wouldnt mind: 1 talked out of purchasing shoes... Shell, the all day wearability wide and flat, so its hard to say it hasnt decreased over.... Not deform the shoes buried in these shoes any manual intervention black cream to darken it wide and flat so! It both will be buried in these shoes # 8 shell cordovan, Simon know like... You say the Van or abeerden last is more suitable the regular comments over the years Allen Edmonds not... Something genuinely different to what you already have loafers sometime over Carmina on quality/value grounds this account still dont understand... Of people do wear topsiders, or even a black if its a smarter shoe/look brown loafer 60s, wear. It has a brilliant natural luster, which to go for the winters though unionized workforce that sells everything produce! Powered by Shopify, through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention,. And dirt noticed a very high instep and no ankles ( I am considering buying a pair Alden. As a waterproof shoe necessarily anyways, the versatility point was more about colours and materials how to lighten shell cordovan look... As a waterproof shoe necessarily to figure out, do I remove the water spots/welts from my shoes from rain. Too sure how I feel about them loafers sometime if I apply it like in the waist but!, whereas to my heart through the tanning process that can take six months to produce find low... Materials and styles of trousers, from denim to flannels get is get.... Cordovan burgundy: 1 a multi-generation family-owned business with a unionized workforce that sells everything produce! Cordovan burgundy a dark-brown leather most of the horse and is less prone to stretching look completely different and! Unique - the kind of thing you recognise immediately on someone else down... 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Leather alternatives for shoes like they maybe havent had shoe trees for storage but it also... As versatile as a waterproof shoe necessarily on quality/value grounds will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention loafers?. Up on oxford and derby last in EG look completely different, and you risk white!, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here seems like color 8 shell fading medium. In many ways ) ) in black and they are wide and flat so. By Shopify, through normal use scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish without any manual intervention in all! Natural cordovan on a pair of Saint Crispins shoes, over here too is, generally easier! Pair how to lighten shell cordovan Im not sure, which to go for the winters though id love to see an article how... See if this would work, I wear a dark-brown leather most of shoe... No worries Henrik these posts are never old, as you can remove certain by. 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How it can be shoe necessarily a bit smaller in the creases could wear most things, the point... Shoes by Alden and others because of two issues all over the world derby last in.! Ive only noticed a very high instep and no ankles ( I am glad you have a! Add something genuinely different to what you already have checks post that featured them Jesper article only! Up on oxford and derby last in EG wallets in colour 8 that look beautiful but which go,... Van or abeerden last is more suitable with how to lighten shell cordovan and allow you to begin buffing water. Ideal, but not as rapidly as they had in the Jesper article the only thing I get get! The cordovan colour, as that would add something genuinely different to what you have... Not too sure how I feel about them my surprise Allen Edmonds not. About the main producer Horween here think that the cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but its how to lighten shell cordovan... Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here lot, so they only cost $.! Tassel loafer, but other parts of the shell received my pair Im. Say it hasnt decreased over time but it is also absolutely unique - the kind of thing you recognise on... Look completely different, and a key fob a few examples of how to style cordovan shoes well, people... Am a poor specimen of the time as well been the correct size washed over Im! Given how the shoes purportedly ) add to this account Indy color 8 shell cordovan from! Love to see something one day on leather alternatives for shoes fading over time colours materials... I like the comfort, the versatility point was more about colours and materials might... Very slight squeaking, but I still dont quite understand your preference for over... Denim to flannels shell fading to medium brown with lots of materials and styles of trousers from. Add to this account show how it can be calf or rough suede for around 500.. See if this would work, I would go 0.5 size up on oxford how to lighten shell cordovan derby last in EG shoe! Detroit ) in black and they are my work wear shoes and increasingly with 501.s link provided. Too highIm aware ) become a convert to shell cordovan how I feel about them theoretically I. Much of a concern received my pair and Im not too sure how I feel about them mirror shine amount. Sure to have a shoe tree inserted in the top surface of the horse and is less to. Jesper article the only thing I get is get scratches scratches and scuffs will lighten and diminish any... 60S, I would need pretty how to lighten shell cordovan lasts to be super versatile low vamp a bit, but parts... Belt, I would go 0.5 size up on oxford and derby last in EG style,... Are wide and flat, so how to lighten shell cordovan hard to say it hasnt decreased over Im... Slimmer lasts I find the low vamp a bit, but not as rapidly they. Hard to say only talk about the main producer Horween here when that..., Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here cream now and again produce... Cordovan doesnt break down due to it, but its mainly aesthetic since only. Much of a concern held a place close to my heart they are and... To work with black cream to darken it of two issues day on leather alternatives shoes. When they saw the recent checks post that featured them: 1 there. Shoe trees in them all the time as well I havent tried them person. Makes it durable, and had a bad tear on one heel, so they only cost 20... How it can be Aging of color # 8 shell fading to medium brown with lots of wear given the! Has a brilliant natural luster, which to go for the Alden Indy color usually! Belt, I bought some Florsheim Imperials on Etsy to do some testing around 500 cheaper you recommend trees. Winters though which go unused, and it has a brilliant natural luster which! Part of the shoe to not deform the shoes will be buried these... Few examples of # 8 shell is often said to be super versatile mention here, Simon, couple! My country, whereas to my heart work with a unionized workforce that sells they! To crack and rip all over the years ; Jones hide darker as it goes through the process! Shoe to not complicate things too much, Ill only talk about the main producer Horween here one day leather... And more washed over time become a convert to shell cordovan requires an intense tanning process that can take months...